WoW suggestions for "days out" - if you have one to share - please email - mail@heraultwhatson.info
"Days Out"
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This section covers a wide variety of days out you might enjoy in and around l'Herault
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Many people have urged WoW to do a "Days Out" to Nimes
So WoW went for a delightful day in Arles
It is a joy to visit and the old town is both very old and compact.
The arena backs onto the theatre
Much mutilated over the years, neglected - converted into a fort - it has been not so much restored and renovated in the manner of Carcassonne.
- which means it can still be used for spectacles even if it is not completely authentic. It may not suit the purists but is spectacular and still used a great deal
The theatre is "next door" and again much renovated - necessary as it has been used as a quarry, had monks and nuns build religeous houses on it and finally a collection of houses were built over it. A great deal of work has made it both magical to visit and with modern stage equipment and lighting - it once again can function as a theatre.
WoW learned on the visit that Roman theatres had front curtains but they were lowered to reveal rather than the other way around used now.
The Green Guide is not estatic about the town centre buildings but reserves the maximum stars
to the Roman Cemetery. We agree - and so did Van Gogh who painted it and made a lyrical description in a letter to his brother
The Roman tombs line the road which leads to a chapel on a route which
led to the city.
A fine day out and we ate well at La Piazza des Thermes - fine food, good quality pichet wine and a rather good loo! - Find it at 6, rue du Sauvage
The old town is also a joy to wander through and mostly car free - and no dog mess - which is as nice as it is rare.
We reckon you could spend a few days enjoying the town, the Rhone and the Van Gogh museum - though we gather there are none of his paintings.
However the place which "kept him" in one of his painful periods is open but we did not find it.
WoW readers - see if you can do better.
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Most of the WoW days out are designed as a sensible drive in Herault.
Occasionally we stray a little as with the Days Out visit to the Dali homes and museums just over the border in Spain.
Recently WoW was invited to visit Andorra - and we thought "why not" as it is only a few hours away - granted it is over 300 kms but............
Actually that is not exactly the truth - we had visited the principality once and made it only as far as the duty free shopping area and thought it had the charm of Brent Cross Shopping centre on a wet Wednesday.
So, we thought, perhaps we should make a proper visit the country - a journalistic challenge to see what it is really like. And as the Andorra tourist board wanted to stump up for the visit including staying in a 5 * hotel, visiting a luxury spa etc etc
Well dear reader - it was a bit of an eye opener!
It is a small mountain locked country about a fifth larger than the Isle of Wight but with a population of just 84,000 compared with 140,000 on the island.
Set in just 2 valleys it has been a seperate country since 805 and is now a democracy with two titular Princes - the Bishop of Urgell in Spain and the President of France. To say it is sleepy would be a massive understatement as it didn't get around to having a constitution until 1993!
A full page on Andorra will be up soon - suffice it to say - it would be a great place to spend a few days and be pampered in the Spa and to visit a country which has kept it's calm and delights.
Short notes - the town of Andorra la Vella is charming - a bit like Bond Street in some ways with posh shops but - the oddity is - there seems to be no noise - the cars all drive gently - they stop whenever they think you want to cross - there is no dog mess and it seems quantly unspoilt.
The other strange thing is - they don't have a smoking ban - so people sit INSIDE cafes and talk, smoke and drink
More anon on an Andorra page - coming soon
Meanwhile some photos of the place to give you a taster
Looking down on Andorra la Vella
This is Andorra "through " the road tunnel under the shopping zone on the hill top
The tiny church in the "Valley of the Stars"
A mountain lake with the huge transmitting towers which made Radio Andorra important in the second world war
Even in the middle of the shopping centre you get views onto the surrounding countryside and the numerous allotments.
It is a very small country but boasts a great variety of experiences and they tell WoW - great skiing too!
http://www.andorra.ad/fr-FR/Pages/default.aspx
More soon on a special Andorra page - see left
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Sévérac-le-Château

Just out of Herault in the Aveyron – reached by the A 75 and a chance to gasp at the Millau bridge – this is a fine town dominated by the 13th century Chateau
The “old town” is all of a piece and a delight to wander round – each turn produces a picture postcard view.


You can walk up to the Château through the old town – which is recommended and visit the Church and discover the history of the Black Virgin.
On the other hand you could drive up to the castle and see the stunning view.
But you would feel a bit of a cheat and you wouldn't feel you had earned a splendid lunch at the Hotel Commerce!
A great place to eat – lovely terrace – terrific presentation, and if you like tripe – heaven! Also a good range of generous and interesting salads. (Open Monday)
Good pichet wine too. This is a very fine place to eat and was full with French diners

Do NOT be put off by the dull look of the hotel from the street - we nearly were and we nearly missed an excellent meal
http://www.hotels-severac.com/English--Restaurant.phtml
On the other hand the new A 75 etape provides an excellent view of the town and a good place to have a coffee. If you bring a picnic - the grounds of the service station are cleverly landscaped within dry stone wall walks
WoW thought it an excellent day out and when the temperature rises and it seems “too hot” on the plane – a trip up to the Larzac with the green pastures and grazing animals is an antidote if you get “beached out” and what a green and pleasant break.
Also served by train from Beziers via Millau
Recommended day out
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Abbey de Fontfroide - near Narbonne

The Abbey is a delight and a visit is as professionally organised as you would find at a National Trust house.
This year is special too as the artist Odilon Redon, who stayed here often at the beginning of the last century - painted to huge murals in the library - normally closed to the public but now open if you book in advance

The present owner, grandson of Beziers born artist Gustave Fayet, sits patiently waiting to be photographed (it took some time but no doubt a much better result than WoW managed)
(Gustave Fayet bought the Abbey for 49,852 francs, partly to stop an American - Gray Barnard transporting the Cloisters back to New York)
The painting was inspired by the statue below - long time derelict and in pieces but recently restored
The video in the Abbey shows what looks like one of the largest 3 D gigsaw puzzles yet - being restored and rebuilt
And the gardens too - an first rate day out
Well signposted, many of the information points are in English and German and there is a bar for snack and a restaurant plus a bookshop.
WoW would recommend the food in the spacious restaurant too.
A little like Fountains Abbey in Yorkshire - the building is hidden until the last part of your walk from the car park.
In the summer the Abbaye also hosts a series of concerts and events - see the excellent website for more information www.fontfroide.com
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The circular towns of Herault are special and were constucted for defensive purposes.
Each has the same "snail like" layout but each is different and worth a visit

Info on events and visits - http://www.circulades.com/
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A "spoil yourself" day out
Balaruc les Bains - O'balia

Certainly not a cheap day out - but the water is 34oC and there is every sort of bubble and jet and cascade to enjoy.
The variety of "showers" and jets are envigorating and fun.
Below - the Japanese pool offers a magnificent cascade and a huge bubble zone in the middle of the pool.
It is the first time WoW has seen a sauna with a glass wall and the steam room is enormous
The changing rooms are a bit basic (think English Public School) the showers are very unimpressive and the lift is out of action.
The staff haunt behind the "desk" uncertain if it their job to welcome - so they don't.
But if pampering is your thing and you want any number of "treatments" this is a lovely place.
04 67 18 52 05 or
contact@obalia.fr
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A great day out - read all about it further down the page
www.montpellier-agglo.com/marenostrum
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Sete and around
It is too easy to over look the areas around this jewel of a town but.......
Frontignan holds few delights - though the old town has been well preserved and presented.
But go a little further East and discover the charming little town of Vic La Gardiole
It would be hard to spend a day here but enjoy the fine town planning,
the fortified church (which is open to the public) and was made into a refuge for the townsfolk and their animals in 1173,
and enjoy the setting of the town.
After a tour of the town we suggest you find the Cathédrale Saint-Pierre-et-Saint-Paul - which is further east and lies outside the rather dreary town of Maguelone.
This was said to be the largest Cathedral in Christendom - when the Pope was in Avignon.
It is an amazing place set almost on and island - and hosts a very fine festival of sacred music in the summer.
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There as so many gardens we have a new page - take a look but this might amuse - a very clever use of water and reflections

Le jardin de Saint Adrien fait partie des sites les plus spectaculaires de notre région.
Rêve d'un enfant du pays, les anciennes carrières datant du Moyen Age se sont transformées peu à peu en un écrin de verdure, paradoxale oasis posée sur les roches volcaniques.
Dans ce lieu de contraste, le promeneur passe de la pierre naturelle aux fleurs libres et odorantes, à l'ombrage frais et intime des pins.
Quatre plans d'eau participent à l'effet saisissant de cet extraordinaire jardin paysager.

Un jardin de 4 hectares au palmarès prestigieux
* « Jardin Remarquable » Classé par le Ministère de la culture
* prix Bonpland 2000 décerné par la « Société Nationale Horticulture de France »
* top cinq des parcs de France 2003 par l'« Association des Journalistes de Jardins et d’Horticulture »
* Guide Petit Futé 2009 de « Jardins de France ». Classé « jardin incontournable »
* Label « Sites d'exception en Languedoc » www.sitesdexception.fr

Off the Beziers to Pezenas road - RN not motorway
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Languedoc Wine Tours
Languedoc Wine Tours is the best way to discover the wine, gastronomy and history of one of France’s most diverse and beautiful regions. Based between Béziers and Montpellier in the Hérault department, we are right in the middle of what many people believe to be the most exciting wine-producing area in the world.
We offer half-day and full day tours in an air-conditioned minibus, never taking more than eight guests. We want you to be able to ask as many questions as you like, and to really feel as though you have got something out of the trip, especially when we visit the wineries for tastings. From 2011 we shall also be offering tutored tastings covering the whole range of Languedoc wine styles.
We only visit high-quality small to medium-sized independent wineries. We have a portfolio fifteen different wineries that we visit, depending upon where our guests are based and the availability of the winery to welcome us on a given day. However, apart from their excellent wines, our wineries are also selected for the quality of their welcome, something which unfortunately is sadly lacking at many domains.
Languedoc Wine Tours is run by Dominic George, who has fifteen years experience in the wine industry, and has spent the last four years introducing the region and its’ wines, history and gastronomy to thousands of guests. 
Our tours, whilst informal in style, try to offer something for everyone. Whether you already know the Languedoc or not, we’re sure that you will come away from one of our tours having learnt something, and having spent an agreeable few hours in a beautiful landscape, meeting people who live and breath the area.
We try to make our tours as informative and enjoyable as possible, without blinding you with science, and we also offer non-wine tours at various times of the year.
Before we do any wine tasting, there is an initiation into the art of tasting. Whilst everyone is different, there are one or two golden rules which will help you to appreciate and get the most out of your wine tasting.
Prices depend upon the number of participants. We take a maximum of 8 people (although we can cater for larger groups upon request). If there are two of you and there are four other people booked on the tour, then you pay the price of a six-person tour, which does bring the price down significantly. We have found that this is the fairest and easiest way to manage our pricing structure. You can also contact us directly to organise a private or bespoke tour
http://languedoc-wine-tours.com/
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CORDES

(Named for its rope making as is Cordoba in Spain)
This quite amazing fortified hill top town is like a film set in its perfection.
We suspect the place teems with visitors in high summer so it is probably best to visit out of season.
Magnificent houses, streets and views which are “all of a piece”
WoW will let the pictures do the talking.
Plenty of places to eat around the pretty town square and the covered market
Local info cordessurciel.fr
Cordes is just a few kilometres from Albi – so a fine chance to visit the wonderful brick Albi cathedral and the towns Toulouse Lautrec museum

A definite WoW wow!
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MILLAU
A different Day Out in spring, take the train under one of the wonders of the modern world – the Millau Viaduct.
It is a good time of year to go as you can see more while the trees are without their leaves
Leave the car at the station and take the train for a completely novel view of the Norman Foster masterpiece.
The route from Beziers, Magalas or Bedarieux to Millau goes through towns which were once the hub of the local coal mining industry and through beautiful countryside which is home to the sheep which bring us Roquefort cheese – through places which seem to have been untroubled by the advances of a century or two. And the train passes under the Millau viaduct as it enters the town.
Crane your necks to see wonderful views of the countryside and of course the bridge itself.
WoW took the morning train which left Beziers at just after 09.00 - check times with SNCF – and walk the short distance into town for a wander around the old centre.

Station is close to the town centre
Follow the park keeper's advice to us “be sure to visit our fine museum” – we did – he was right, have lunch and return on an afternoon train.
The old town is delightful and very well maintained with many gems
The arcade is worth a visit
And the architecture interesting
Visit the Halles - a stunning restoration with an up-to-date feel inside - one of the best in the area - and the Octagonal church tower behind
The Maire says the building of the new bridge at Millau re-vitalised the town. Once the home of traffic jams which could add several hours to the journey, the town is now enjoying a a renaissance as travellers from all over the world visit to see the Viaduct, which is the tallest cable-stayed road bridge in the world.
It has "the Foster touch" – he says “a slight bend and a gentle incline which makes this a work of art as well as an engineering triumph” To its long history which includes being a major earthenware centre for the Roman Empire and, from the twelfth century, a centre of the leather industry and of glove making, Millau can now add this 21st century masterpiece which is taller than the Eiffel Tower.
Millau is also known as the town where in 1999, José Bové, a local anti-globalisation activist, demolished the Millau MacDonalds as it was being built, in symbolic protest of the spread of fast food. The McDonalds was later rebuilt, and Bové received a Presidential pardon from the then French President - Jacques Chirac.
According to the SNCF web-site.
Train leaves Beziers at 9.12 calls at Bedarieux at 09.43 and reaches Millau at 10.58.
Return journey at 14.04 and 15.46 but please check these yourself.
Or if you want a longer visit and to take a later lunch - check the website.
There are plenty of restaurants and a range of prices.
WoW tip - take something to clean the train windows to really enjoy the views.
WoW surprise - the town is twinned with Bridlington and sports a litter bin from the Yorkshire town 
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OLARGUES

Avec les 5 000 piétons, cyclistes et cavaliers qui l’empruntent chaque mois, le pont Eiffel d’Olargues revit. Il faut dire que depuis 1972, année de la fermeture de la ligne voyageurs Bédarieux-Mazamet, le pont s’ennuyait.
En 1996, le Département a racheté à la SNCF le tronçon Corniou-Mons et l’a transformé en piste verte. Le pont Eiffel d’Olargues en est le lieu le plus visité. Beaucoup d’animations pour ce vieux monsieur de 126 ans.
Son grand âge explique son mauvais état : corrosion, absence de drainage des eaux de pluie, maçonneries dégradées… C’est pourquoi le Département entame ce mois-ci un chantier de rénovation complète de l’édifice. D’un montant de 835 000 €, il durera cinq mois pendant lesquels le pont sera fermé aux promeneurs. Il leur sera rendu tout neuf dès la fin du printemps

The old town is of course the star of the area
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The Trail of the glass makers - or Le Chemin des Verriers
A good place to start the route - which was famous for its glass making from the Middle Ages through to the Revolution - is in the picture book town of Claret - go to Sommieres and follow the signs!
The Halle du Verre, opened in 2009, is a €1 million exhibition on glass making from earliest times and provides a fascinating guide to the craft of glass making and showcases some amazing modern work by local glass makers. 
This fine new building features an interesting history of glass making and a wide range of glass
www.halleduverre.fr
Across from the musee is the public workshop of Bernadette and Gerard Attard. Well worth a visit - see Gerard at work
Bernadette makes stained glass
Unique in Europe - Claret also boasts the only distillery in Europe which distils the wood of the Juniper tree into a black sticky oil which is prized by the pharmaceutical industry as a basis for skin care products.
It is used in products for Psoriasis and Eczema.

The "Heath Robinson" distillery also distils a product for the cosmetic industry. 10 tonnes of wood produces a mere 10 kg of the distillate.
The by-product is charcoal.
www.distilleriedescevennes.com/pages/huile.html
The countryside here has a very different feel to much of l'Herault - and is well worth a visit with many towns worth exploring and remote and interesting country for walking.
The route is well marked - from Sommieres in the East through to Ferrieres les Verreries in the North West and Valflaunes in the South West
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HORSE RIDING 
Aux portes du Parc Naturel Régional du Haut Languedoc et du Minervois,
à cheval sur l'Aude et l'Hérault, EQUITATION ASSIGNAN NATURE ...
une équitation de pleine nature, de qualité, entre Vignobles et Garrigues.
HORAIRES D'ETE8 h - 11 h / 16 h - 20 h
HORAIRES D'HIVER 9 h - 12 h / 14 h - 18 h
- fermé le lundi -
Ouvert toute l'année
EQUITATION ASSIGNAN NATURE
A 7 km de Saint Chinian sur la D 178
Nous écrire :
Route de Villespassans
34360 ASSIGNAN
Nous téléphoner :
Tél / Fax : 04 67 89 75 83 (aux heures repas, sauf jours rando)
Portable : 06 60 25 86 86 (tous les jours)

A WoW reader recommends
"Very gentle horses and good instructors. Not recommended for the impatient as Florence (the instructor) took her time getting them prepared and allowing you to become familiar with your horse before setting off! However, she only charged us for the actual time we were on the horses and out on the road."
"All in all, would definitely recommend. But do call before heading out there."
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VELORAIL - a very French idea

As the slogan says - "fun for all the family from 7 - 70 (and a bit)"
Off the A 75 at Sainte Eulalie de Cernon
An abandoned railway has been given a new lease of life by Velorail. Small railway wagons fitted with pedals allow you to glide down this fascinating track, through tunnels and over viaducts and all with breathtaking views of the valley de Cernon and the hills, rock outcrops and even cattle grazing in the fields. It also runs through what amounts to a nature reserve - all seen from these small railcars in close to silence.
2 routes are on offer - up-hill "les Papillons" is for the hearty as it is quite a pedal uphill - though coming back down is fun.

In the other direction - "les Orchidees" is pretty pedal free after the first 300 meters and then a delightful glide down hill. And the bonus is - a train will come down after you and take you back to the top! We left at 11.ish and got back at around one o'clock - good value for €16 we thought and after working up an appetite - well judged for lunch - how very French.
Each "car" has 2 pedaling positions and an easy seat for 2 more passengers. Even if you are not a rail fan you will enjoy it - not an anorak zone at all.
Over a viaduct and into the welcoming cool of one of the 4 tunnels
And a great bonus is Sainte-Eulaie de Cernon - fine fortified town
and not far from the Millau viaduct - if you have friends to entertain
Booking a good idea as the trips run in batches - full details on the website - just 2 trips a day in June but 4 or more in July.
www.veloraildularzac.com or phone 05 65 58 72 10


WoW recommended - or should that be WoW rave?
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OPEN for the summer on Sunday afternoons - Lerab Ling

Little prepares the visitor for the stunning yet incongruous site of the shining gold and bright colours of the Lerab Ling temple. 
The colourful inside presided over by a 7 meter high Buddha.
To visit the inside of the temple you will have to remove your shoes "to discard the outside world and its worries"
Contact the Lerab Ling Visitor Centre
E-mail : visit.lerabling@rigpa.org Telephone: [33] (0)4 99 62 00 18
www.lerabling.org

WoW recommended
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A MUST VISIT 
Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert
The village has maintained its historic state because of its isolation and is listed as one of the Plus Beaux Villages de France ("The most beautiful villages of France").
In 806 Saint Guilhem established here the monastery of Gellone which is explained in a new and excellent video presentation in the Cloitre.

Once you have wandered through the gem of a town it is worth a visit to the Grottes de Clamouse near the Pont Diable - see below.
WoW recomended 
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MONTPELLIER
3 really interesting places to visit - WoW recommended
The Mare Nostrum - Aquarium - at the Odysseum

A really fascinating place and do visit the mock up of the bridge of a ship going through the "roaring forties" - noisy and it rocks - literally. Just re-visited and it is a thoroughly excellent half day - do not rush it - there is so much to see.
On the mock up of the Bridge of a ship you pitch and toss as water is hurled at the windscreen - at one point the power even fails - it is a great simulation

All the signs are also in English - which helps!
The Zoo - it is a hard act to follow the aquarium - this is less "fun" and more worthy but still an interesting visit 
Le parc zoologique et la serre amazonienne seront ouverts du mardi au dimanche.


Pendant les vacances scolaires de la zone A et tous les jours fériés, le parc zoologique et la serre amazonienne seront ouverts du lundi au dimanche.
Les caisses de la serre amazonienne seront ouvertes de 10 h à 16 h, l’accès au parc zoologique sera possible jusqu’à 16h30.
An attractive feature is a canopy top walk through the top of the trees.
Many animals and birds are not caged and so you "feel" you are in the Amazon.
It also rains from time to time and the heat and humidity are really a great mock up of the real thing
Also ate a pretty good meal overlooking the Amazon. The zoo though is very disapointing - perhaps the animals were on strike - they were not very obvious.
And while you are in MONTPELLIER - search out the Chateau D'O
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The park contains a theatre and a couple of outdoor areans in which a whole range of concerts and events are held.
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All three get a WoW wow
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A couple of places to visit near Narbonne

Fontfroide Abbey
The Abbey is a delight and a visit is as professionally organised as you would find at a National Trust house.
Well signposted, many of the information points are in English and German and there is even a bar and a restaurant plus a bookshop.
A little like Fountains Abbey in Yorkshire - the building is hidden until the last part of your walk from the car park.
In the summer the Abbaye also hosts a series of concerts and events - see the excellent website for more information www.fontfroide.com
History from Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Fontfroide Abbey or l'Abbaye Sainte-Marie de Fontfroide is a former Cistercian monastery in France, situated 15 kilometers south-west of Narbonne near to the Spanish border.
It was founded in 1093 by the Viscount of Narbonne, but remained poor and obscure until in 1144 it affiliated itself to the Cistercian reform movement. Shortly afterwards the Count of Barcelona gave it the land in Spain that was to form the great Catalonian monastery of Poblet, of which Fontfroide counts as the mother house, and in 1157 the Viscountess Ermengard of Narbonne granted it a great quantity of land locally, thus securing its wealth and status. The abbey fought together with Pope Innocent III against the heretical doctrine of the Cathars who lived in the region. It was dissolved in 1791 in the course of the French Revolution.
It was re-founded in 1858 by monks from Sénanque Abbey. The community was driven out of France by French legal changes in 1901. The premises, which are of very great architectural interest, passed into private hands in 1908, when the artists Gustave and Madeleine Fayet d'Andoque bought it to protect the fabric of the buildings from an American collector of sculpture. They restored it over a number of years and used it as a centre for artistic projects.
It still remains in private hands. Today wine is produced here of the AOC Corbières quality under the French appelations system. It also has a small working farm, bookstore and restaurant and takes paying guests. 
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FORTRESS OF SALSES

Closer to the Spanish border – a delight and more than that – an ingenious design which was designed to confuse anyone who stormed the walls. So complicated that a new garrison spent 3 weeks learning the tricks laid by the castles designer. It is as if the building has a sense of humour!
Salses fortress, is a unique example of military architecture combining aspects from medieval castles and modern bastions, located 15km from Perpignan.
Visiting Salses fortress
• A masterpiece of military architecture. Salses shows the transition from a medieval castle (with a keep and round towers framing long curtain walls) to a modern fortress (it is strictly geometrical with deep foundations).

With walls from 6 to 10 ten metres thick, the construction has three wholly independent parts running from east to west. The various levels are connected by a labyrinth of passages with a multitude of zigzag internal defences.
• Contemporary art at Salses. There have been major public commissions of artwork for the fortress since 1986. Three sculptures by Toni Grand (1986-2004) are currently on show, as are installations by Antoni Muntadas, Marc Couturier, and Daniel Firman, among others.
Understanding Salses fortress
• A strategic defensive position between Catalonia and France. The fortress was built by the Spanish in the late 15th century on a site with a source of spring water, most useful in the event of a siege, and it guarded the old border. It was besieged, captured and recaptured in 1503, 1639, and 1640, before being definitively taken by the French in 1642. The Treaty of the Pyrenees in 1659 redrew the borders, and Salses lost its strategic role and importance. Nevertheless, Vauban began partially restoring it in 1691.
You may have seen it from the autoroute - but stop next time - it is a treat
More info at www.castles.info/france/salses 
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Days out – some new ideas from WoW in the Agde/Meze/Etang de Thau area
It doesn’t all have to be sun and sand!
AGDE
The Ephebe Musee is just splendid - and best of all - every thing has been found in the River or the Sea.
It might look a bit like Milton Keynes on Sea but follow the road down into town - and when you get to the roundabout with the filling station - turn left - ie second exit - and follow to next roundabout and come back and turn right in to the musee. Really good collection well presented
A collage of the three outstanding bronzes with Ephebe in the centre statue below

There are also 2 splendid little bronzes of young boys - plus an amazing array of locally found artifacts 

Photo courtesy of "Musée de l'Ephèbe".
And a bonus while it is hot in summer the museum is air-conditioned!
Top WoW marks for this 
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LOUPIAN – Mosaigues and partial excavation of the Gallo Roman Villa

WoW readers familiar with Bath and its wonderfully preserved Roman spa might be a touch disappointed.
However this villa – discovered by vignerons in the 1930’s is worth a visit – certainly the Romans knew how to pick a great spot – over looking the Etang de Thau and of Sete.

Work did not start on restoration until after the site had been classified as an Historic Monument (probably to do with grants!) and the path has been slow.

Work really started on the mosaics after the ground had been underpinned and most of what you see has been virtually rebuilt and re-layed.
(Lattes museum is really splendid - see below)
Money for further excavation has run out but there is no doublt this is a fine example of a merchants house and much more is thought to be underground.
The introductory area, before one goes to the site itself, has good explanations and translations in to English and German too
Originellement, une modeste ferme a été bâtie à quelques kilomètres au sud de la Via Domitia, sur le versant regardant l'Étang de Thau et la colline de l'actuelle commune de Sète. La ferme a rapidement prospéré et s'est étendue. Pendant le Haut-Empire, aux premier et second siècles, la villa est devenue une grande résidence patricienne avec des thermes. La principale activité agricole était la viticulture, pour laquelle a été construit un chai capable de contenir 1 500 hectolitres de vin stocké dans de grosses jarres (dolia), retrouvées sur place. À cette période a été aussi construit un petit port au nord du bassin de Thau, destiné à l'exportation du vin. On a également retrouvé un atelier de potiers pour la fabrication d'amphores destinées au transport de ce vin. Ces amphores sont estampillées M A F.
Au Ve siècle, la villa a été complètement rebâtie et se transforme en une résidence somptueuse dont le sol est couvert de mosaïques.
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LATTES

A huge range of artifacts found on this site.


Située au bord du Lez, Lattes - l'antique Lattara - fut un port important de la Méditerranée occidentale, occupée du VIe siècle avant notre ère au IIIe siècle après J.-C. 
This glass bowl is extraordinary to look at
Le musée archéologique, situé dans l'ancien Mas Saint-Sauveur aux abords de l'ancien port, vous invite à découvrir ces vestiges. Le musée permet aussi au public de découvrir, à travers ses expositions temporaires, d'autres civilisations méditérranéennes antiques.
While it is a great museum it is really a working archaeological site - mainly worked on by a team for Oxford
Really worth a visit - recommended

BOUZIQUES

Do visit the museum on the Etang – really interesting and lively and explains how the oysters are reared
An example of a good modern museum

http://www.bouzigues.fr/musee/francais/musee.html
Worth a visit
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ABBEY DE VALMAGNE – one of the most beautiful and atmospheric places for miles around.
| In 1139 Raymond Trencavel, Viscount of Béziers founded the Abbey of Valmagne in the Parish of Villeveyrac, near the port of Mèze on the "Bassin de Thau". From the XII th. to the XIII th. Century, Valmagne was one of the richest abbeys in South of France. |
Originally Valmagne was founded under Benedictine order but, in 1159, the monks joined the Cistercian movement.The early days of the abbey constituted a period of great prestige, growing wealth and expansion, and then Valmagne suffered from the effect of the Hundred Years Wars, and later of the Religious Wars. The attack of the Hugenots in 1575, organised by Valmagne's own abbot, gone into the Reformation, was a real disaster. Badly damaged, all the stained glass of the roses and clerestories were for ever broken, and the abbey needed the next two centuries to recover some of its original splendour. At the Revolution in 1789, the last five monks fled just ahead of rebellious peasants who invaded and ransacked the abbey, burning precious documents, funiture and works of art. Confiscated as a national property, the abbey was sold in 1791 to Mr Granier - Joyeuse who turned the church into a vine cellar, with addition of big vats in the nave and absidals chapels, preventing by this use this magnificent edifice from becoming a stone quarry, as so many abbeys. The 29 th. of July 1838, following the death of Mr. Granier, the abbey and its dependencies were sold, this time, to the Count de Turenne, and still remains in the possession of his descendants. The actual church in classical Gothic style was begun in 1257 on the foundations of the original Romanesque chapel, which had become too small for the ever-increasing number of monks. Inspired from the great cathedrals of the North of France; it has 83 meters long and 24 meters high.The cloister has the exquisite charm of the Tuscany's garden, with the Chapter House and its ribbed voult, witness of the presence of the monks since the XII th. century, and its elegant and magnificent fountain bringing the most pure and fresh water from the spring of Diane. Open to the public since 1975, Valmagne is well known to all archaeologists and lovers of old monuments. The restoration of the abbey is permanent, new bells have been put back in the steeple. The owners have won many prices in recognition for the work done to restore the Abbey. |
The church is stunning but the lavabo in the Cloisters is the most beautiful we have seen.
Music festival held each summer
http://www.valmagne.com/english/histoire.html
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TOULOUSE - not in Herault but only a couple of hours away
Take a tour around the Airbus plant. 
The tour begins in the «telemetry room» with a presentation of the A380 programme.
It replays the recordings of the first test flight - the stalls, the banking and the pilots cross talk "I am really delighted how this is flying" you can hear one say to the other.
And all the while you are seeing the instrument panel that shows just what the pilots saw

You will then enter the Jean-Luc Lagardère site and see, from a observation tower, the general testing stations, the outside testing stations and an overall view of the entire site.

Finally you board a full scale model of the A380 (a 16m section of the fuselage with fully equipped main and upper decks) and discover the secrets of the interior of the world’s only true double decker airliner.
Things you might not know – it takes just 3 weeks to assemble an A380 – and then it takes 6 more weeks to test many of the functions in the largest building in Europe – 10 Hectares – or 24.71 acres. And then more tests outside.
The statistics are mind boggling – for example the wings are made in Wales, weigh 35 tonnes and are 150 foot long. They start their journey to France on a barge on the River Dee, transfer to a sea ferry, onto another barge and then by road (it takes 3 days, traveling at night), to bring the wings to the factory)
The major sections come from UK, Spain, Germany and of course France. The myriad of parts for the giant airliner are made by 1,500 companies in 30 countries
A fully loaded plane weighs 560 tonnes – each wing can hold 100 tonnes of fuel.
Superlatives don’t really explain and lists of statistics are boring – why not go and see for yourself – it is a fascinating half day
More info on the website
pagesperso-orange.fr/manatour-taxiway.fr/gb/airbus.htm
Open every day except Sunday and bank holidays
Monday to Friday : 9h00 - 18h00
Saturday : 9h00 - 12h30 / 13h30 - 18h00
Tél. 00 33 (0)5 34 39 42 00 / Fax. 00 33 (0)5 34 39 42 05
e-mail : reservation@taxiway.fr
A 5 star WoW rating 
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And while in the Toulouse area - you are about half an hour from the resevoir which feeds the Canal du Midi and a museum which traces the work and the engineering of this "grand projet" 
The water source, the reason the canal rarely runs dry, was an act of brilliance by Jean Pierre Riquet. Walking in the area a country man pointed out to Riquet that streams hereabouts divided - some running to the South and the Med - the others heading North to the Channel. Also being at the end of Black Mountains the rainfall was reliable and could feed the canal. THE ideal place for a reservoir. 
So here - at Saint-Ferreol near Revel - was built one of the largest man-made structures in Europe at the time - the massive lake which still feeds the canal over 400 years later
It makes a great contrast with the very 21st century Airbus visit - but in it's way was, at the time, just as cutting edge as the planemakers are today
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Look on the map - it is about 20kms eastwards from Castelnaudry.
Lovely lake, breathtaking scenery and fine civil engineering
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Water on its way to replenish water lost from the Canal

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Villefrance-de-Conflent
The statio for the train jeune

A softies way of seeing the snow for €10!
Le petit train jaune was built at the beginning of the century in order to link the towns and villages high up in the mountains with Perpignan and Prades, the principal administrative towns. It links Villefrance-de-Conflent with la Tour de Carol and is 63 km long, made up of wooden compartments with bench seating. It is the highest railway track in France with the highest SNCF station and the views are stunning as you pass over the viaducts; Séjourné (named after the chap who built it) and the Pont Gisclard, built 80m high overlooking a precipice.
It’s braking system is unique in the world, being the first train to have used electricity. These "aéro-statiques" brakes use electrical current and stop the train by electro-magnetisme: the heat created by this friction is dissipated by enormous elements underneath the machine. which are cooled by air. The brakes of course are important as the downward run is particularly steep between Olette et Saillagouse. Despite the steepness of the return journey, there has never been an accident apart from the day of the train’s first trial run in 1909! Ooops! The line nevertheless went on to be opened safely in 1910 from Villefranche to Mont-Louis, progressing in 1911 to Bourg Madame, but not arriving in Latour until 1927.
The line is a single track and the trains can only pass each other at certains stations (Olette, Fontpédrouse, Mont-Louis, Odeillo, Saillagouse, Bourg-Madame) so the driver has to check by radio with the control centre in Villefranche and obtain permission to leave each station!
The line leaves Villefranche-de-Conflent, goes up through the Tet gorges to Mont Louis and crosses over the col de la Perche into Cerdagne. It passes Font-Romeu, descends towards Saillagouse, Osséja, Bourg-Madame, Ur, and finishes in Latour-de-Carol where passengers can link up with the "Transpyrénéen" ( Paris-Toulouse-Barcelone). It goes through 19 tunnels and over 2 viaducts:
Timetables at : www.ter-sncf.com/languedoc
A WoW recomended
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A train spotter adds
Latour de Carol - Enveigt (France - Spain)
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In the heart of the Catalan Pyrenees, between the 'bourgs' of Enveigt and Latour de Carol, an exceptional station is located. Three different gauges combined and three different electricity systems.
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All trains have to terminate in Latour de Carol. In spring 2003 about 5 services to/from Toulouse-Matabiau (by SNCF) and Barcelona-Sants (by RENFE) are provided daily. Additionally night-trains to/from Quimper and Paris-Austerlitz reach Latour de Carol. |

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Views of the station of Latour de Carol in the 20's. |
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Also destinations like Tourcoing/Lille and Belgium (Brussels, Ostend, Schaerbeek) were included in the timetable during the last years. The quantity of services by 'le train jaune' (also operated by SNCF) to Villefranche (with connection to Perpignan) varies through the year. |
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International operation France - Spain |
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As the french and spanish tracks are constructed with different gauges (1435mm and 1676mm) no trains run the whole way from Toulouse to Barcelona. Passengers have to change trains, which are scheduled to offer a direct connection. Occasional freight-trains pass the border and are worked to Puigcerda, where goods are reloaded. The double-track line to Puigcerda consists of two seperate tracks with different gauges and electrified at different currents. It is said the Spannish went for a gauge of 5 foot - so that the French on their standard 4' 8 1/2 trains could not invade! No-one knew about points then. |
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Three gauges next to each other
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Le train jaune |
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Between 1903 and 1927 the line from Villefranche-Vernet les Bains to Latour de Carol was built and established a link with the Transpyrénéen Toulouse - Barcelona. With regard to the landscape 19 tunnels and 2 enormous bridges had to be constructed on the 63 km long metric-gauge line electrified at 850 V by third rail. |
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Today SNCF operates between two and five trains per day on the highest French railway-line, which are mainly used by tourists. At Villefranche a connecting service to Perpignan is offered. |
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HOT SPRINGS - close by the train jeune
Les sources naturelles d'eau chaude
Eté comme hiver, il fait bon se prélasser dans des bains d'eau chaude sulfureuse à ciel ouvert (dont la température avoisine les 35°C), à Dorres (anciens thermes romains en granit), à Llo ou encore en Haut Conflent, à Saint Thomas-les-Bains.
Bains de Saint Thomas

The smell of sulphur assaults the senses long before you turn into the natural amphitheatre where the Bains de Saint Thomas nestle into the snowclad foothills of the Pyrenees. Celebrated as ‘Les Sources d’eaux chaudes naturelles’, these baths provide everything you could wish for and more: a range of pools, water jets, showers and jacuzzis plus a pair of swimming trunks for my husband who had managed to forget his. Stretched out in the warm, softly bubbling water, gazing at the mountains and deep blue sky above, you do not want to be anywhere else in the whole world
Popular in the winter too
(eau à 36° l’été et 38° l’hiver) près de Font-Romeu à Fontpédrouse.
Au nombre de six, les sources qui jaillissent sont parmi les plus chaudes des eaux sulfureuses de la Vallée de la Têt (3 bassins extérieurs)
Tél : + 33 (0)4 68 97 03 13
Les célèbres bains de Dorres en contrebas du village de Dorres à 14 km de Font Romeu permettent de se baigner dans des eaux sulfurées à 42° (baignoires romaines en plein air)
Tél : + 33 (0)4 68 04 66 87
Les bains de Llo à 25 km de Font Romeu
Eau thermale sulfureuse : un bassin en plein air avec une eau à 31° (jacuzzi et nage à contre courant) un bassin couvert à 30°.
www.sunfrance.com/
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FONT ROMEU - no longer working but an interesting visit

A WoW recommended
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The solar furnace in Odeillo, is the largest in the world. The location was chosen due to the air quality and the fact that the region boasts approximately 300 sunny days per year. An exhibition along with demonstrations of the working of the solar furnace, can be seen every day from 10h - 18h. Amongst other things, it explores the potential and actual uses of solar energy for domestic purposes, as well as solutions for the energy crisis. Interesting and educative and well worth exploring with the whole family from a science point of view. The first solar furnace in the world
Each year, more than 30,000 visitors are fascinated by the solar furnace in Mont-Louis, an enormous construction of 1420 mirrors. |
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The Dali Triangle
Granted Figueres doesn't seem an obvious day out from Herault but......
BUT it is less than 3 hours away from here and it is magic.
Do try to do at this is the time of year to avoid the crowds and queues.
First Figueres and the Theatre museum

Why here?
Well this theatre was virtually destroyed in the Civil War
AND Dali was born in the town
AND baptised in the church you can see in the background 
See the stage and large windows where once there were the curtains
The car stands where the auditorium once was
The theatre is just packed with delight including the jewellery he made and his collection of old masters. Too big and diverse for us to describe - you just have to see it "in all it's glory" - never has an old and overworked phrase worked so well.

Going from the heart of Figueres to his sea side house is a nightmare as there are almost no signs until you have nearly arrived.
Aim for the C 260 and go to Cadaques. Just beyond is Portlligat and the shack which he and his Russian wite Gala grew into a maze of invention and delight - house and gardens - all got the Dali treatment.
A mere fishermans shack grew into a fascinating space of interlocking and inter connecting rooms set on a small hill overlooking the bay and the ocean

And his Granada inspired swimming pool.

You will have to join a timed guided tour but the guides, building and gardens are superb. Proof of age over 65 results in a modest discount.
Oh dear - did we say a day out? Ah well - probably you need to stay or return again to Pubol and the castle that he and Gala refurbished and which is her burial place (he did not want to be parted from her)

Though she died at the sea side house he drove her back to their castle in the Cadillac, now garaged in the castle. Though described as a castle it is not vast andhas only 2 bedrooms and yet has grand public rooms and an enchanting garden.
Also it sits virtually in the heart of the village of Pubol. 
At the end WoW felt not so much a chance to see the work of one of the great and strange surrealist artist of the lobster telephone fame but more the life works of an enormously talented and gifted artist in so many spheres of art.
Again not many sign posts and again WoW got lost - but - follow the C66 from Girona and look very carefully for the turn to La Pera and Pujol - once you have left the main road it is pretty well signed and well worth the distance. Calm and yet weird, ancient and yet strikingly modern.
An interesting visit
More at www.salvador-dali.org
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Grottes Clamouse
It is simply not possible for this old hack to pen a portrait lyrical enough to do justice to the Caves at Clamouse. 
How often have we all sped by the Grottes, between St Guilhem le Desert and the Pont Diable thinking, "well we have DONE Wookey Hole so lets press on - they can't be that special!"
A grave error as this complex of caves are not only beautifully presented - they are simply stunning.
What is more the preparatory film explains, as nothing before has managed, the mechanism and chemistry of the caves and the formations. Plus the most delightful and helpful guide who slips from French to English.
This is a WoW must 3*** place. (3 * is a max WoW measure)
Visit the website now and promise yourself a visit in the spring - we do not think you will be disapointed.
As a teaser - look at this formation on the left - very rare indeed and unique in Herault -
We recommend this

It looks as amazing in real life and this is just a wee snapshot from the hour long tour.
A fair bit of walking is involved, but cleverly there are seats from time to time where you just sit, look and marvel - including a pretty stunning son et lumiere.
www.clamouse.com
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ANDUZE Steam train rides
Starts running in April
If you like the smell and noise of the past there is a steam train in Gard - Les Cevennes



More info 04 66 60 59 01 or www.trainavapeurdes-cevennes.fr
or www.trainavapeur.com
Recommended
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ANDUZE
And while you are in the area - do go to the Bambouseraie - might sound dull but it is most certainly not

The magnificent bamboo-lined entrance.
The Bambouseraie is a unique site given up to that extravagance of which nature only has the secret, and to the exuberance of plants in the most unexpected forms.

However, the Bambouseraie is a living place, open to artists, a place to dream and meditate where every kind of sensitivity can satisfy one’s desire for enchantment and knowledge.

Through real rites of passage, visitors are free to increase their culture and make discoveries to be shared, helped discreetly and efficiently by all the members of the team present in this exceptional garden.
WoW thought he would be bored - but it is an engaging and interesting visit. The train stops there as well

WoW recommended


Originally Valmagne was founded under Benedictine order but, in 1159, the monks joined the
The 29 th. of July 1838, following the death of Mr. Granier, the abbey and its dependencies were sold, this time, to the Count de Turenne, and still remains in the possession of his descendants.
